Water pump and impeller change in Johnson 130 V4

Firstly, thank to JohnRudeTips for their article on changing a Johnson water pump.  Here is the page: http://www.bassboatcentral.com/johnrudetips.htm

This is meant as a supplement since the 1996 and older V4 seems to be a rare engine when it comes to help.

Raise the engine up and set the rest stop.

Shift into reverse so that the shift rod is in its lowest position. Once in reverse, go to the port side of the engine and look through the hoses towards the middle, low behind the carbs, practically against the block of the engine and find the bolt pictured here. This is the shift rod bolt that needs to be removed.

It’s a 3/8 bolt if I remember correctly. A long 1/4 inch ratchet extension and an elbow joint make this an easy task. Also, get a telescoping magnet to pick up the bolt after removal.

That picture shows the bolt on the end of the magnet. Note that only half of the bolt is threaded. That should give you some indication of why it won’t unscrew all the way.  use the magnet to pull it out.

Unbolt the torque plate from the lower unit as well as the bolt revealed after removing the torque plate and the one next to it. There are also four bolts – two on each side of the lower unit that we must remove. The lower unit is heavy, so if you can’t handle 40-50 pounds easily, get someone to help you pull it out. The shift rod adds a little resistance when removing the lower unit. Pull, but be ready for it to pop out once released. Also be careful not to let the exhaust tube fall. Here is the bottom after removing the lower unit.

Here is a picture of the shift rod to understand more of what you’re trying to pull out and remove the bolt from:

Unbolt the water pumps four bolts and pull it up off of the driveshaft.  If the impeller is locked, turn the water pump while pulling up in order to unlock the key from the impeller.

Follow the instructions on the water pump kit.  My only problem was finding OMC Gasket Sealer.  I checked some forums online and deduced that using Permatex #3 works just as well.  O’Reilly in my area ordered it for me next day and cost $3.99.

Here is the permatex on the water pump case:

Once everything is together, continue with the pump instructions and bolt it in.

While I had the lower unit off, I decided to also change the oil.  Take off the top level screw first:

Then drain the oil by removing the bottom drain screw:

After all the oil is drained (takes about half an hour), screw the oil pump into the bottom drain screw hole and pump the oil in until it just comes out of the top level screw hole.  Screw the top level screw back into place.  Unscrew the oil pump tube from the drain hole and quickly insert the bottom drain screw.  You’ll lose a little bit of oil, but that’s okay. Now, the job’s done.  Time to put it all back together and enjoy.

The hardest part for me to get the lower unit back in was lining up the shift rod into the part where the bolt goes back in.  Ensure that the exhaust tube and the tube that goes into the water pump line up correctly and then get the unit as far up as possible.  Put at least one side bolt in to hold it up.  You also may need to turn the prop in order to get the drive shaft splines to match up.

Once up, you can get a long flat head screwdriver just under the top casing to wiggle the shift rod up some more.  The lower unit should come up a little easier after that and you can use the bolts to raise it up the rest of the way. Once up, put the shift rod bolt in the socket attached to the elbow and insert into the “holding plate”.  The rod didn’t line up for me, so I had someone shift slowly from reverse to neutral while I put pressure on the bolt.  It snapped right in at about neutral.

After all the bolts are back in and the shift rod is fastened and tight, the job is done.   No biggie, right?

 

 

 

 

Lloydz IAV on my Victory Vegas 8-ball

I am very impressed with my IAV. I recently bought an 8-ball with Stage 1 swept exhaust and got frustrated with the stalling on tip-in and backfiring. After reading thevog.net posts about this part and the reviews of its effectiveness, I had to order it. here is an account of my installation.

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The IAC is right behind the right side cheese wedge. Removing the 4 5mm bolts was rather easy.

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The three joined hoses were removed with a flathead screwdriver and a little finesse.

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Once removed, split the three hoses by cutting the joining rubber. A razor blade works great.

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On the other side of the engine, remove the cheese wedge and pull the IAC hose from the air box. Fingers are good, but needle nose are better.

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Once out, cut 1/2″ off the plastic tube and insert into the IAV large opening. Make sure the adjustment is facing down in relation to how the tube would normally sit. Seat the heat shrink tubing over the plastic and IAV and heat it so it had a good seal.

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Reinstall the IAC tube to the air box so the IAV and other two tubes are ready.

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Put the IAC back in place. Grab some lubricant (I used 10-w 40) and rub it around the two seals on the IAV. Push it in the middle pipe of the IAC firmly, but squarely. Push the other two hoses back on. Make sure the air tube is still on the air box all the way. Everything is pretty much reassembled at this point. Screw the 5mm bolts back in so the IAC is fastened. The hardest one is the bottom left. Hope you have small fingers.

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After everything is done, follow Lloydz instructions to make adjustments. Enjoy!

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92-up Ford Bronco Column Shift Selector Tube Replacement

Recently had the selector tube break, so this is a tutorial on how to fix.  Thanks to Steve83 as always for making diagrams like THIS ONE available for everybody:  ’92-up Steering Column Diagram

Disconnect the negative on your battery before doing any work.  Also, if you have an airbag, follow the correct procedures for disconnecting that circuit or removing the steering wheel.  I don’t have one, so this tutorial doesn’t include those steps.

I opted to pull the steering wheel, but after doing the job, I’m not sure how necessary this was.

Remove the bottom trim cover of the steering column. (4 philips screws)

Remove the key cylinder by inserting the key and turning to the RUN position.  grab a small drill bit or anything small enough to press in the small pin located beneath the cylinder.  Pull the cylinder out while the pin is pressed in.

With the key cylinder out, remove the top trim cover of the steering column.  Remove the two Torx screws holding in the turn signal assembly.

Remove the three clips in this assembly.  One goes to the Overdrive button on the shifter.

On top of the steering shaft U joint, pop off the shift cable from the shift selector lever arm.

Remove the shifter base cover by pushing out the clip on the right side and prying up the push nut on the left

Push out the holding pin that connects the shifter to the tube

Unscrew the gear indicator cable and unhook it from the tube arm.

Remove the torx bolts holding the ignition wires.  Lower the ignition cable box out of the way.  Undo the wire harness located right behind this as well.

Remove the four nuts holding the steering column to the dash.

With the column lowered, remove the six torx bolts needed to remove the shift selector tube

This is the tube removed

Remove the two torx bolts at the end of the tube.  Set aside the spring and lever arm.  Tap out the pin holding in the pawl.  These parts will get used again.

You can see here, the original broken tube along side the new tube kit.  This is a Dorman model 905-100 I picked up at Advance Auto Parts for $28.99.

One item that does not come in the kit is the small clip and bushing shown below

I reused the clip and turned the bushing 180 degrees, adding a little bit to the already existing slit so it will fit reversed.  This helped to keep the shift lever tight without buying a new bushing.  Also to note, the pawl pin did not fit into the new tube.  I had to drill the hole slightly using a 13/16 bit.

Be sure to grease the outside of the plastic socket bushings so shifting is smooth with less resistance.  Otherwise, they fit pretty tight.

Assembly is the reverse of this process.  Enjoy your Bronco that shifts like new.

Altima Suspension Upgrade

I recently started looking into upgrading the suspension on my Altima after getting it back from repairs due to a wreck (not my fault).  I decided to go with Racingline Springs teamed with KYB GR-2 shocks/struts.

SpringsShocks

I’ve decided to make this post a “tutorial” of replacing the suspension on the car.  I hope this can help anyone else looking to DIY their suspension.
Here is the car before the new suspension.  Note the ugly gap in the front.  Bad, Nissan, bad!

Wheel GapTo start, I jacked up the rear of the car from the center jack point and put jack stands under the side rear jack points.  With the rear end in the air, remove the wheels, then remove the top nuts of the shock.  Once the top nuts are removed, remove the bottom bolt

01-RemoveTopNuts 02-RemoveBottomBolt

Pull the shock out and set it aside.  Pop the rubber top off in order to get to the top nut.

03-RemoveShock 04-RemoveTopRubber

Jack up the lower arm enough to support it and remove the bolt.  Lower the arm until there is no more pressure on the jack.  Remove the jack and then press the arm the rest of the way down so that you can remove the spring.

05-JackLowerArm 06-RemoveSpring

Replace the spring with the new one and make sure to line up the end of the spring to the notch in the rubber stop.  Jack the lower arm up again until it meets the hub and replace the bolt.

Now, transfer the hardware form the old shock to the new shock.  Remove the top nut using either an adjustable wrench or vise grips to hold the flat part of the piston.  My new shock came with new bushings, top washer, and nut.  The rest of the hardware was reused.  Note how everything comes off, it goes back on in reverse.

07-DisassembleShock 08-TransferHardware

Put the shock back on reverse of removal.

09-ReassembleRear.jpg

Once the rear is complete, lower the car down and roll it back and forth to relieve any stress from the lifting.  Jack up the front on the center lift point and then place jack stands under each side at the side lift points.  Remove the wheels., then loosen the screws on the top of the strut tower.  Only loosen the center nut 1 turn.  Loosen the others a couple of turns.  After they are loose, remove the Brake line retaining clip on the Strut.

10-BreakTopNut 11-RemoveBrakeLineClip

Remove the sway bar tie rod nut, then move the tie rod aside.  About here is where I forgot to keep taking pictures, so I’ll describe the rest as best I can.  Loosen the two bolts that fasten the strut to the hub.  Only remove one bolt.  Place a jack underneath the hub.  Now, remove the 3 nuts from the top of the strut tower.  Lower the jack until the strut has good clearance at the top.  Take out that bolt we left in a minute ago and remove the strut.  Be carefull not to let the strut fall because it will fall directly onto your CV boot.

At this point, you would compress the spring, remove the top of the strut assembly, decompress the spring, swap over hardware, and put the strut assembly back together.  Instead of me doing this, my buddy offered for me to go to his shop where they have a spring compressor station and he did it for me.  Thanks, Gene!

Here is the new strut assembly with the new springs.  The nice thing about lowering springs is we didn’t have to compress them to get the assembly back together.  Installing the assembly is the exact reverse of removal.

13-NewStrutAssembled 14-NewStrutMounted

Make sure to tighten your nuts and bolts well.  Give the strut tower nuts another tightening when it’s all together, especially the center one.

That’s it!  I thought this was much easier than my previous Honda’s.  Here’s some pictures of the car after the drop:

AfterClean

BeforeAndAfter